女生穿的騎馬裝在英文里有個(gè)特別的詞：riding habit，字面意思是“騎馬的嗜好”，實(shí)際指的是下面這種服裝。

Elisabeth of Bavaria, Empress of Austria, in a riding habit, 1884

奧地利公主，巴伐利亞的伊麗莎白身著騎馬裝，1884年

從17世紀(jì)中期開始，正式的騎馬套裝通常包括有：

一件合身剪裁的外套上裝加長(zhǎng)裙；

一件修身剪裁的襯衫；

一頂帽子，通常是當(dāng)時(shí)的男士正式禮帽；（從維多利亞時(shí)期開始，高帽子加面紗也開始流行。）

低跟靴子，手套，經(jīng)常以領(lǐng)帶或者束胸片完成整套服裝。

一般來說，整個(gè)騎馬套裝都習(xí)慣使用男性服飾的細(xì)節(jié)，無論是大翻領(lǐng)袖口，黃金飾邊還是紐扣。服裝的顏色往往比日常服裝顏色更深，更陽(yáng)剛。較早的樣式可以類似于男孩穿的衣服。

c.1680

c.1700

Riding habit, 1801

When high waists were the fashion, from roughly 1790 to 1820, the habit could be a coat dress called a riding coat (borrowed in French as redingote) or a petticoat with a short jacket (often longer in back than in front).

大約在1790年到1820年間，高腰時(shí)尚風(fēng)行，一種騎馬裝外套叫做riding coat，或者一種前短后長(zhǎng)的緊身外套。

British riding habit: 1750-59

Joseph Wright 1763 Mrs Wilmot in riding dress

Riding Habit, 1770-1775. England.

Lady Worsley - 1776

1791 Journal des Luxus Riding Habit from fashion plate

Portrait of a Lady wearing a riding habit by an artist of the French School, c. early 18th c.

Henrietta Cavendish, Lady Huntington by Sir Godfrey Kneller, 1715

In France in the 17th century, women who rode wore an outfit called a devantiere. The skirt of the devantiere was split up the back to enable astride riding.By the early 19th century, in addition to describing the whole costume, a devantiere could describe any part of the riding habit, be it the skirt,the apron,or the riding coat.

在法國(guó)的17世紀(jì)，婦女們穿著的服裝叫做devantiere，這種裙子在背后部分是分開的，以便于騎行。在19世紀(jì)早期，這個(gè)詞已經(jīng)被用于各種騎行服裝，如裙子，襯裙或者外套。

Riding habit 1825, Rijksmuseum Amsterdam

Queen Louise of Prussia riding habit.

Riding habit ca. 1837-40

1870’s riding habit

Riding Habit Date: ca. 1875 Culture: American

Emily Post寫道：無論時(shí)尚如何，騎馬裝就像制服一樣，必須按照規(guī)定制作和穿戴。正確的騎行服裝不是時(shí)尚而是形式，無論是長(zhǎng)裙還是短裙，都是平淡無奇的，腰部像馬蜂般的方形結(jié)構(gòu)，這些已經(jīng)持續(xù)了幾十年，并會(huì)持續(xù)更久。

Two-Piece Navy, Wool Riding Habit, 1870s

Woman's riding jacket of flannel trimmed with mohair and lined with sateen, designed and made by John Redfern & Sons, England, 1885-1886.

Riding habit with pants, ca. 1885.

Riding habit 1887.

A ladys riding habit, English, circa 1890

1740s-50s powder blue riding habit based on Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1.

轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明文章出處：FDC面料圖書館，ID：fdcfabric